When you pick up a skincare product, it can feel like trying to decode a foreign language. Scientific names, marketing buzzwords, long ingredient lists—how are you supposed to know what’s actually in the bottle, let alone whether it’s right for your skin? In this post, I’ll walk you through exactly how to read a skincare label—what matters, what to ignore, and what to watch out for if you have sensitive or reactive skin.
As a dermatologist, I rely on a systematic approach when reading skincare labels. Whether I’m choosing a product for myself, a patient, or helping a skincare brand develop a safe and effective formula (like ERLY), there are a few key things I always look for.
Start With the Front of the Label (Then Turn It Around)
Let’s be honest—the front of the label is designed to sell you the product. You’ll see words like “clean,” “natural,” “dermatologist-tested,” or “non-toxic.” While these claims may sound reassuring, they’re often unregulated and don’t guarantee safety or efficacy.
Instead of focusing on front-of-label marketing language, flip the product over and examine the actual ingredients. That’s where the truth lies.
Understand Ingredient Order
On skincare labels, ingredients are listed in descending order by concentration. This means the first few ingredients make up the bulk of the product, and the ones at the end are present in tiny amounts.
In general, the first five ingredients often tell you the most about the product. If these include high-quality hydrators like water, glycerin, or hyaluronic acid, that’s a good sign. Conversely, if alcohol denat, essential oils, or potentially irritating actives are listed up top, it might not be the best choice for sensitive skin or younger consumers.
Some active ingredients (like peptides, niacinamide, or zinc oxide) are effective in small concentrations, so you may see them appear mid-way or even toward the end of the list. The key is knowing which ingredients to expect where.
Key Ingredients Dermatologists Love
Certain ingredients have stood the test of time and research. When I scan a label, I look for clinically backed ingredients that hydrate, strengthen the skin barrier, or target specific concerns without causing irritation.
For hydration and barrier support, ingredients like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, squalane, and niacinamide are excellent choices. Glycerin is a humectant that pulls water into the skin and works well for all skin types. Hyaluronic acid helps plump and hydrate, while niacinamide calms inflammation and can help refine pores and reduce redness.
For sun protection, I prefer mineral blockers like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, especially for people with sensitive or acne-prone skin. These ingredients sit on top of the skin to reflect UV rays and are less likely to cause irritation than chemical sunscreens.
In ERLY’s formulas, for instance, you’ll find zinc oxide in our ERLY Start Moisturizer SPF 40, hyaluronic acid in the Daily Splash, and niacinamide in Daily Soothe—all fragrance-free, non-irritating, and dermatologist-approved.
Avoid These Common Irritants
Just as important as what a product contains is what it doesn’t. For those with sensitive, acne-prone, or allergy-prone skin, I always recommend avoiding:
Fragrance (including essential oils and parfum) is one of the most common causes of contact dermatitis. Even natural-sounding ingredients like lavender oil or citrus extracts can trigger reactions.
Alcohol denat (denatured alcohol) is drying and can compromise the skin barrier, especially in toners or gel-based moisturizers.
Harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) can strip the skin of its natural oils and lead to irritation.
Dyes or artificial colorants aren’t necessary in skincare and may cause redness or allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.
Botanical extracts might sound appealing, but they’re not always gentle. If your skin is reactive, skip products with long lists of plant-based ingredients unless they’ve been patch-tested.
That’s why ERLY excludes these ingredients from every formula. Our approach is grounded in what the skin needs—not what sounds trendy.
Check for Active Ingredients and Percentages
If a product claims to contain a specific active—like niacinamide, peptides, or zinc—it’s helpful to know the concentration. Some labels will list percentages on the front (e.g., “5% niacinamide”), while others don’t. In general, effective concentrations are:
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Niacinamide: 2–5%
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Peptides: vary, but typically effective in low concentrations
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Hyaluronic Acid: even 0.1% can be effective, especially when multiple molecular weights are used
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Zinc Oxide: 10–20% for broad-spectrum sun protection
If no percentage is listed and the ingredient is buried at the bottom of the list, the product may not contain enough of it to make a difference. Transparency matters here, which is why ERLY always formulates with actives at dermatologist-recommended levels.
Look for “Fragrance-Free,” Not “Unscented”
There’s an important distinction between “fragrance-free” and “unscented.” “Fragrance-free” means no added fragrance—natural or synthetic. “Unscented,” however, can still include masking agents that neutralize odor but may irritate the skin.
For sensitive, allergy-prone, or pregnancy-safe skincare, fragrance-free is always the way to go. This is a non-negotiable in dermatology and a core value behind every ERLY product.
Don’t Be Fooled by the Greenwashing
Just because a product says it’s “clean,” “natural,” or “organic” doesn’t mean it’s safe or effective. In fact, some of the most irritating ingredients are found in nature—like essential oils, plant extracts, and natural fragrances. Think about poison ivy!
Instead of focusing on how “natural” a product claims to be, focus on how your skin responds. A fragrance-free formula with scientifically proven actives and barrier-supportive ingredients is far more beneficial than a product full of botanicals and marketing fluff.
Patch Testing Is Your Best Friend
Even if everything on the label looks good, your skin is unique. I always recommend patch testing a new product—especially if you have a history of sensitivity, eczema, or allergic reactions. Apply a small amount behind your ear or on your inner arm for a few days in a row before using it on your face. If no reaction occurs, it’s likely safe to proceed.
Final Thoughts: What Dermatologists Want You to Know
Reading a skincare label doesn’t have to be intimidating. Once you know what to look for—clinically backed actives, ingredient order, and potential irritants—you’ll be much better equipped to choose products that actually work for your skin, not against it.
For a dermatologist-approved routine, stick with formulas that are fragrance-free, hypoallergenic, and thoughtfully formulated with skin-friendly ingredients. That’s the foundation behind ERLY—safe for sensitive skin, gentle enough for all ages, and effective without unnecessary extras.
Your skin deserves honesty. And that starts with the label.
Looking for skincare that takes the guesswork out of reading labels?
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